Citrus ; photos by François Luro, INRAE
Aquilaria, Marc Ducousso.
Syzygium aromaticum, Pascal Danthu
Aniba Roseadora, Nadine Amusant.
Bottles of essential oils of Rosewood, Aniba roseadora, Nadine Amusant
Melaleuca quinquenervia, Laurent Maggia
Melaleuca quinquenervia, Laurent Maggia
Syzygium aromaticum, Pascal Danthu
Santalum insulare, Jean Luc Ansel
Calophyllum inophyllum, Jean Luc Ansel
Pimenta racemosa, Peninna Deberdt
Pimenta racemosa, Peninna Deberdt
Santalum insulare, Jean Luc Ansel
Santalum insulare, Jean Luc Ansel

The purpose of this conference is to bring together the territories of French Guiana, French Polynesia, New Caledonia, Wallis and Futuna, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Reunion and Mayotte, on scientific topics and development initiatives focusing on "Trees and other plants of the overseas Cosmetopoeia".  By promoting exchanges between stakeholders (researchers, decision-makers, socio-economic actors, etc), the aim is to offer a roadmap for defining a strategy to transfer research results, and to sustainably develop industries by developing bioresources in the French overseas regions. In these current unprecedented times, it seems appropriate and relevant to multiply and enhance initiatives on a regional level, to promote transfers and innovation by creating bridges and sharing successful models, to create added-value in the overseas regions and participate in their economic recovery and in employment.
The conference also aims to address the development of natural products from these trees in the food and cosmetics fields, through initiatives implemented in these territories. Such initiatives will integrate the knowledge and ancestral know-how of the indigenous peoples of the territories, particularly in terms of the Cosmetopoeia, and will contribute to maintaining a sustainable and balanced natural environment, while preserving and enhancing the exceptional biodiversity of the French overseas territories, associated with traditional knowledge.
Taking the form of plenary lectures, scientific papers, round tables and workshops, poster sessions and site visits, this conference will be structured around 3 topics covering the following bioresources:
    for French Guiana: Aquilaria, rosewood, palms, etc.
    for the French West Indies: Bay rum tree, citrus, etc.
    for French Polynesia: Tamanu, coconut palm, etc.
    for New Caledonia: Sandalwood, niaouli, etc.
    for Mayotte: Ylang-Ylang, clove, etc.
    Others.

1. Research and development:
This topic will seek to present the potential and wealth of biodiversity as resources for development; resources whose uses may inspire novel commercial development.

2. Emergence and structuring of the sector: this topic will seek to support companies in their development through knowledge and experience sharing.

3. Commercial development, innovation and transfer: this topic will seek to propose strategies for commercial development and transfers within an innovative and eco-responsible framework, while highlighting local actors through their practices and knowledge.
Around a hundred participants are expected, including researchers, academics, producers, farmers, processors, manufacturers, local and regional authorities and public agencies, students, schools, journalists, etc., from the French overseas departments and territories and mainland France, but also from other geographical areas.

You are very welcome to join us

Dr Alba Zaremski

President of the Operational Committee

         


NADINE

Dr Nadine Amusant

President of the Scientific Committee 

              


IMG-20210915-WA0011

Dr Clara Zaremski

President of the Technical Committee


            

A novel concept: the Forest Cosmetopoeia

Mr Jean Luc Ansel, Founder of the Cosmetopoeia at the Cosmetic Valley

The term "Cosmetopoeia" was coined and registered by  Cosmetic Valley  on 5 March 2010. Cosmetic Valley is an association representing the actors of the cosmetics industry (academic research institutions, universities, CNRS, industries, training, etc.). The concept of the Cosmetopoeia "using plants and traditional know-how for cosmetic purposes", is part of the Nagoya Protocol. The Cosmetopoeia is to cosmetics what the traditional pharmacopoeia is to pharmacy, namely an encyclopaedia of plants and traditional uses intended to maintain health or to cure. The Cosmetopoeia is therefore a compilation of the census and collection of plants and their traditional uses for beauty care.
The Forest Cosmetopoeia is a novel concept worth developing because this subject is currently very poorly documented and texts are not widely available, although popular uses of plants/trees for cosmetics have always existed in many countries and cultures of the world. In 2016, the first study of the Tropical Cosmetopoeia surveyed the uses described in the literature (ethnobotany and pharmacopoeia) to highlight woody plants of tropical origin and the taxa most commonly used in cosmetics or dermatology, while describing some remarkable examples in terms of chemical composition and biological activities (Ansel, 2016).

*Cosmetic Valley makes the word "Cosmetopoeia" available to everyone free of charge, unless it is used for commercial purposes.

Dr Jean Luc Ansel

Founder of Cosmetic Valley

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Genesis of the symposium

With the wealth of biodiversity in the French overseas territories, its potential in the green economy and scientific knowledge acquired through numerous projects for the commercial development of these bioresources, CIRAD took the initiative to organize this conference in order to share and put to use its research results from projects conducted in French Guiana, such as the  Aquil@Guyane   project, the main aim of which is to organize a production chain for Aquilaria oleoresin, which is highly sought-after by the cosmetics sector. The same is true for the essential oil of Rosewood, which is highly sought-after by the perfumery, cosmetics and aromatherapy sectors, and which has also been the subject of numerous studies, especially the  Anib@rosa project  . Despite our progress, one of the challenges remains a change of scale, and easier access to the market for farmers.
So, along with Cosmetic Valley and scientists from CIRAD, the Universities of French Guiana and French Polynesia, agencies in charge of innovation transfer, such as Guyane Développement Innovation (GDI), which is setting up a Cosmetic Valley branch in French Guiana, we are organizing this conference on the trees of the Forest Cosmetopoeia (perfumery and healing trees) integrating an overseas dimension. Today, thanks to the dynamics instilled and increased attractiveness, this conference has taken on considerable scope with the participation of several other overseas territories and about a hundred participants from around the world.